
Surfed Southern Los Angeles County this afternoon. It was the calm after the storm, a week after the giant south swell pounded the west coast and left surfers content for weeks.
"It's more of a wind-sport kind of day," I tell the lifeguard after he points out the sailboats racing past the beach. "Well that's okay, after last weekend," he replies.
The wind was blowing 1-3 foot waves. Occasional fun lefts hit the pointbreak for a couple of surfers to turn off the lip a time or two. I caught a set wave backside, tried to get around a section before I dipped out as the wave crashed onto the rocks.
The local guys were friendly, a dude tossed me a piece of wax when I showed up at the beach with a clean 8'0" (Forgot I cleaned off my longboard for the first time in three years.)
"It's more of a wind-sport kind of day," I tell the lifeguard after he points out the sailboats racing past the beach. "Well that's okay, after last weekend," he replies.
"If it were like that every weekend, well, we would just be spoiled."He laughs and pedals away on his dorky lifeguard bike with life-saving-device wrapped over the handle bars. His pot belly tells me he witnessed most of the big waves from his lifeguard stand at the state beach.
The wind was blowing 1-3 foot waves. Occasional fun lefts hit the pointbreak for a couple of surfers to turn off the lip a time or two. I caught a set wave backside, tried to get around a section before I dipped out as the wave crashed onto the rocks.
The local guys were friendly, a dude tossed me a piece of wax when I showed up at the beach with a clean 8'0" (Forgot I cleaned off my longboard for the first time in three years.)
There was a shit-ton of kelp out there though. I don't know if it was because of the big waves (the side of the road was blanketed in tarps) but it seemed like the ocean was a bit stirred up.
After an action-packed weekend with all eyes on the ocean last weekend it's refreshing for a mellow surf session at a unfamiliar spot. Even if it did cost me $6 in parking...only in SoCal.
After an action-packed weekend with all eyes on the ocean last weekend it's refreshing for a mellow surf session at a unfamiliar spot. Even if it did cost me $6 in parking...only in SoCal.

