Officially living in Long Beach now, I'm lucky I can to go to the beach every day. I found some waves past the Orange County line, before the metered madness of Huntington Beach. I've taken a liking to paddling out from the beaches of rich neighborhoods. You see the thing about rich people is there are always working for their money and never have time to enjoy their hard earned beach front home.
I'm young and enjoy the freedom that goes along with my youth, so I figure I'll surf there every day and they can live vicariously through me. And then when they have time on the weekends to surf I'll smile and snake em :) just kidding. Kinda.
So today I pulled into the for-the-price-of-free parking spot next to a dude in his thirties pulling a hefty longboard from his Explorer. He wore a fisherman's hat with a Clash iron-on. I start unloading my crap and we small talk. He introduced himself as Robert and stuck out his fist for me to pound I went for a handshake, we fumbled back and forth maybe three awkward attempts until we eventually shook hands.
I turned back to my drunk and he opens his back passenger door. "Woah!" he says, "this door hasn't opened in years, I shake your hand and it starts working again!"
"I've got the magic touch" I smile at him. He says I must have some kind of crazy luck. Maybe I do.
The water was choppy, I need to get my rear in gear earlier to avoid the afternoon wind. The waves were an inconsistant 3 foot with the occasional 4 foota out the back. I dashed into the water in my bikini to test the water- a little chilly so I slipped into my 3/4 wetsuit before paddling out.
Like the neglected step child my 6'6" sat in my parents' garage for three years without a day in the sun. It's since been upgraded to my only shortboard in California, my favorite toy. It's been a minute since I've surfed a board shorter than 7' so I'm wobbling like a turkey the first few waves I take off on. I love sitting on the inside at this break, I can turn and catch the wave just as it jacks up, pump it a little and ride it until I get tossed onshore, buddha bless the sandbars.
I caught a couple lefts and a right that pushed me into a baby-air chop hop from the choppy face. I got tossed as I pulled into a close-out wave, I reached with my arm towards the surface as the nose of my board shot into the palm of my hand, blocking the temple of my head. Even though I previously stuck a rubber noseguard on the tip of my board, a blow to the head would be no bueno.
I caught a coupple more waves before I flopped onshore like a beached seal next to a group of keikis screaming bloody murder each time the shorebreak rolled over their feet. I stuck my board into the sand and watched the wind destroy the curling waves. I kept staring down at my right hand as if asking it for an explanation, "so you're lucky now or what?" Maybe its because it's the first day I've worn these two new rings I bought last night. On my thumb I have a crazy silver swiggly ring and on my road rage finger I have a silver rose ring. Are they lucky? Is my right arm lucky? Is it because I ate my cereal out of my coffee mug after my third cup? I don't know... leave it to E news, with Britney Spears' life looking a little more stable they need another story to over analyze.
I'm young and enjoy the freedom that goes along with my youth, so I figure I'll surf there every day and they can live vicariously through me. And then when they have time on the weekends to surf I'll smile and snake em :) just kidding. Kinda.
So today I pulled into the for-the-price-of-free parking spot next to a dude in his thirties pulling a hefty longboard from his Explorer. He wore a fisherman's hat with a Clash iron-on. I start unloading my crap and we small talk. He introduced himself as Robert and stuck out his fist for me to pound I went for a handshake, we fumbled back and forth maybe three awkward attempts until we eventually shook hands.
I turned back to my drunk and he opens his back passenger door. "Woah!" he says, "this door hasn't opened in years, I shake your hand and it starts working again!"
"I've got the magic touch" I smile at him. He says I must have some kind of crazy luck. Maybe I do.
The water was choppy, I need to get my rear in gear earlier to avoid the afternoon wind. The waves were an inconsistant 3 foot with the occasional 4 foota out the back. I dashed into the water in my bikini to test the water- a little chilly so I slipped into my 3/4 wetsuit before paddling out.
Like the neglected step child my 6'6" sat in my parents' garage for three years without a day in the sun. It's since been upgraded to my only shortboard in California, my favorite toy. It's been a minute since I've surfed a board shorter than 7' so I'm wobbling like a turkey the first few waves I take off on. I love sitting on the inside at this break, I can turn and catch the wave just as it jacks up, pump it a little and ride it until I get tossed onshore, buddha bless the sandbars.
I caught a couple lefts and a right that pushed me into a baby-air chop hop from the choppy face. I got tossed as I pulled into a close-out wave, I reached with my arm towards the surface as the nose of my board shot into the palm of my hand, blocking the temple of my head. Even though I previously stuck a rubber noseguard on the tip of my board, a blow to the head would be no bueno.
I caught a coupple more waves before I flopped onshore like a beached seal next to a group of keikis screaming bloody murder each time the shorebreak rolled over their feet. I stuck my board into the sand and watched the wind destroy the curling waves. I kept staring down at my right hand as if asking it for an explanation, "so you're lucky now or what?" Maybe its because it's the first day I've worn these two new rings I bought last night. On my thumb I have a crazy silver swiggly ring and on my road rage finger I have a silver rose ring. Are they lucky? Is my right arm lucky? Is it because I ate my cereal out of my coffee mug after my third cup? I don't know... leave it to E news, with Britney Spears' life looking a little more stable they need another story to over analyze.
